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The St-Gilles region has more than 17 breaks situated on its beaches which are scattered over a distance of no more than 12 kilometres. Exposed to the southern swell, the St-Gilles region is surfable practically all year round. The surfing presence is notable throughout St-Gilles, especially on the Roches-Noires broadwalk which is the local hangout of the St-Gilles surfers. Here, during the evening over a few beers, the generations come together, the exploits of the days surfing, being the fruit of many a passionate discussion.. At night, St-Gilles is particularly lively hot spot.
A powerful beachbreak which works only a few times a year. This wave is situated on a large beach of black sand opposing an oceanside cemetery. The wave works on very big swells, in Winter, or after a passing cyclone when all the other spots are too big. Both a right and a left, this wave offers 2 very fast and powerful tubes which are often gobbled up by the boogie- boarders. Few amateurs surf here when it’s bigger than eight foot, not just because of the size, but as much because of the fact that there have been 2 shark attacks here in the last few years.
Situated at the exit of the Cap la Houssaye, this spot is visible from the national highway. The wave, a long and regular left of good quality, breaks over a shallow coral reef about 40 or 50 metres out from the beach. Entering the water is made a little sketchy as there is no pass to access the line up without crossing the reef. It is preferable to surf here at high tide on a swell of at least 3 foot, as this insures a minimum of depth. It is not recommended to surf Cap Requin if you are a learner. We’re not sure where the name of this cape comes from, as there is no comparison whatsoever between this spot and the places where sharks habitually frequent.
Boucan Canot is one of the most beautiful beaches on the island and very popular with the beachgoers, especially on the weekend, Boucan offers two breaks, a left and a right. The biggest problem with getting to the surf is trying not to trip over the twin peaks literally scattered all over the beach! The break is situated on the northern end of the beach right opposite the lifeguard post. Unfortunately the break is usually reserved for swimmers only and surfing is only permitted when there is a red flag (high surf, swimming prohibited). The Boucan right is a heavy wave with an even heavier take-off that jacks up right in front of a gnarly coral-rock shelf, this wave doesn’t even break until it’s at least six foot and blowing the takeoff can be extremely hazardous to your health. Offshore in a southerly wind, the wave although relatively short, can be quite tubey and finishes with a gnarly shorebreak, much to the delight of local shapers.
The wave breaks over a flat bottom shelf in deep water, surfable from two to ten feet; the Boucan left is very popular, especially on the weekends when it is literally invaded by an army of juvenile boogieboard bandits. The spot is however a lot less crowded during the week or during a big swell. The wave although short is of good quality and tends to max-out at about eight foot, at which time it’s a good idea to hit the right situated just opposite the left. Best in Winter.
This wave has been fairly regularly surfed for a few years now, a good spot to get away from the hordes of young boogieboarders that flock to the Boucan lefts on the weekends and during school holidays. The wave, a lefthander which breaks over a coral reef into relatively shallow water, can be very fickle and is sensitive to swell and wind direction, and also tidal factors. Depending on the day, the wave can be anything from fast and hollow to fat and full. Entering the water can be effected from the beach in front but the pass is narrow, shallow, and tricky to negotiate with the bottom covered in sea urchins. An easier way to get to the line up is to take the paddle down from the left at Boucan Canot, thus avoiding a paddle out which can be quite treacherous at low tide. Ti’Boucan is surfable all year around from about 2 foot to an optimum size of around 4 to 5 foot. Best conditions for good hollow waves are a southerly wind in a south swell.
“Les Aigrettes” consist of two breaks. The peak situated further north offering both a right and a left, and the other, a lefthander which breaks along the length of a rocky point. Entering the water is effected by following a very specific path situated amongst the rocks off the left point. Do not try and get out the back by crossing the reef directly, as it is very shallow and covered in sea urchins. The right A very hollow right which breaks over the coral reef offering a tubular bowl on take off. After the tube, the wave continues to break rapidly, eventually closing out on the reef. It is recommended to preview your kickout. Don’t be too much of a glutton and wait until you’re swimming in sea urchins before thinking about kicking out. The left off the right Hollower and wallier than the right, the left breaks into very little water and may deposit you directly onto the coral reef. Warning! Surfing this wave is not advised unless you are of a good standard, otherwise you may end up at the nearest hospital. This wave is especially appreciated by boogieboarders, Flippers compulsory. The left In a south swell, breaking over a coral reef, this wave offers a fairly good take off but goes flat soon after, ideal for perfecting cutbacks. This is also a good learner’s wave, although not being without its dangers. Entering the water is tricky and the wave finishes on the coral, think about kicking out in advance. When the swell is from the North, accompanied by a good southerly wind, the wave is long, hollow and very walley.
The neigbouring spot of “Cachera”, this wave requires the same wind and swell conditions. A very tubey right which breaks over a coral reef. This is a bit of a “Hellwave” which works mainly after a passing cyclone. The break is mainly surfed by boogieboarders and learners should definitely abstain. At high tide reaching the peak can be effected by entering the water directly in front of the break and padding through the winding channels across the coral reef. At low tide, enter the water from the pass at “Cachera” and then paddle up to “Trois- Roches” about 100 metres to the North.
Cachera is not often surfed as it works in a northerly swell and north swells are fairly rare. A pretty good righthander which breaks over a coral shelf, this wave offers a tubey takeoff which is followed by a good walley section. The break is situated at the northern extremity of the “Roches Noires” promenade. It is possible to reach the peak by crossing the reef via a semi-pass at both high and low tides. Be careful of the sea urchins and coral when entering the water and near the end of the wave.
A short and very fickle righthander, which breaks rapidly over a coral shelf. Those who don’t make the wave often call it a closeout. Situated in the heart of a seaside resort, this wave is the «rendez-vous» place of the young St-Gilles surfers, it is not uncommon to count more than forty surfers in the water, whether there are waves or not. A few days per year during a large north swell, there appears the perfect wave, but unfortunately, this happens only very rarely. Roches-Noires is a good learner’s spot which presents little danger although there is an underlying rock ledge, which is connected to a submerged coral shelf near the end of the wave. A little care should be taken during big swells. During spring tides, it can be very shallow at low tide.
Facing the Saint-Gilles ravine, just next to the swimming zone at Roches-Noires, the “Banc de Sable” is surfable when neighbouring surf spots become saturated. Although being of fairly average quality, this wave has the advantage of being relatively safe. During a big swell, those who don’t feel up to surfing Saint-Leu or the righthander at Boucan may be inclined to surf here. A righthander which breaks into relatively deep water, this wave offers some more or less pretty fast sections that demand a very instinctive style of surfing. An immediate extension to the right called “L’Escalier” which breaks on the coral reef; the best surfers may be able to pass from one wave to the other. “Banc de sable” is mainly surfed by learners who find here the possibility to surf even when the swell is very big.
Situated at the southern entry of the port at “St-Gilles”, “La Digue” has been regularly surfed for around two years now. A lefthander which breaks over the coral reef, this spot consists of 3 peaks, each one offering a differing level of difficulty. The inside peak, hollow and powerful, is best left for surfers of a good standard. The second and most regularly surfed peak offers a good section that is workable through to the inside peak. On a really good day, with a good southern swell, it is possible to takeoff from the far outside peak and make it all the way through to the inside. Entering the water to the 3 peaks can be effected from the concrete pre-slabs situated off the jetty at the southern extremity of the port entry or from the beach which aligns the groyne.
In the heart of an aquatic reserve, «l’Hermitage» is one of the most beautiful places in Reunion Island, white sand, turquoise water, multi-coloured coral, illustriously coloured tropical fish, the epitomy of picture postcard perfection... ...And to top it all off, l’Hermitage boasts two filthy, filthy waves, one on each side of its coral reef pass. Entering the water is effected from the lagoon and attacking the waves is easily facilitated by using the channel created by the pass. The current is generally pretty strong and very little paddling is required to reach the barrier where you can take your pick of the left or the right. Because of the distance between the break and the beach, it is advised to respect certain safety measures: - Don’t surf alone, - There is a lifeguard post situated just in front of the pass, inform them that you’re going surfing, - Don’t wait until you’re totally exhausted before going in, as you will have to paddle against a very strong current (more than 5 knots), the same current which allows an easy paddle back to the peak, - Be careful of the reef, it is very shallow, - Sharks have been spotted here. L’Hermitage Right From the takeoff a big barrel forms, there’s only one way, pull straight in and backdoor it. Surfable to about 6 foot, the bigger it is, the more room there is in the barrel. The right, although shorter than the left next door, offers a more perfect tube. L’Hermitage Left This wave works perfectly in a northerly wind, offering a very hollow left tube which breaks over the reef. From the takeoff to the kickout an adrenaline rush is assured. Even the most blasé of surfers may experience some new sensations here.
However sharks are living all around the island, they are not attacking very often. Avoid surfing after strong rains, in front of mouth rivers and at the sunset. Take informations with surf school, surf shops and local surfers. |